one man’s obsession with Mediterranean Climate Gardening
  • Home
  • About
  • My Garden
  • Random
  • Contact
  • PALMS
  • CYCADS
  • SUCCULENTS
  • FLOWERING PLANTS
  • LANDSCAPING
  • Reviews
  • TOURS
  • HODGEPODGE

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park and Anikao, Madagascar

It was hard to believe my four-week trip through Madagascar was about to end. When I first arrived, four weeks sounded like a long time. But as with any trip, time flies. My time was down to just a few more days. This final leg would involve a quick hike at Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park for a few hours and end with me relaxing on a beach in Anikao.

After my last stop visiting Isalo National Park, I would get back in the car to start the almost four-hour drive to the coastal town of Toliara. It wasn’t long, however, before we made our first stop in a small village along a river. This village is where I was able to see Ravenea rivularis growing in habitat. It was also where I grew to understand why Ravenea rivularis can be a tricky grow here in Southern California. As you can see from the picture, it really does live in the rivers.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Village Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Ravenea rivularis

Almost halfway through the drive to Toliara you come upon Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. The park is all that remains of the once expansive dry deciduous forests that were dominant in southern Madagascar. Centuries of deforestation from slash-and-burn agriculture have devastated the area to a somewhat plant-devoid plateau inhabited by zebu herders. Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park is a small remnant of those dry deciduous forests. National Route 7 (RN7) cuts right through the national park.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Road

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park was established in 1997 and became an official national park in 2002. It is divided into three forested sections: Zombitse, Vohibasia and Isoky Vohimena. Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park is unique in that it is the transition zone between the dry forests of the south and west and the humid forests of eastern Madagascar. Even though it is not far from Isalo National Park, Zombitse is much richer in plant and animal life.

When we pulled into the visitor center (used very loosely), this unknown Uncarina species (maybe Uncarina peltata) in flower was the first plant to jump out at me.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Uncarina peltata Flowers Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Uncarina peltata Flowers

Uncarina species and Aloe vaombe.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Uncarina peltata and Aloe vaombe

I didn’t find any Aloe vaombe within the park itself, so something tells me these Aloe vaombe were planted here.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Aloe vaombe Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Aloe vaombe

Euphorbia laro were everywhere.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Euphorbia laro

Kalanchoe gastonis-bonnieri is a popular plant back home for succulent collectors. It was great being able to see how these grow in habitat.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Kalanchoe gastonis-bonnieri Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Kalanchoe gastonis-bonnieri

It was the wrong time of year to see orchids in flower in Madagascar. So it was a treat to be able to see this Aerangis ellisii in bloom. Aerangis ellisii is abundant in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Aerangis ellisii

I don’t know which species of orchid this is and I really don’t know how it grew like this. It was just floating in the air.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Unknown Orchid

The primary reason I wanted to visit Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park was the desire to see my first Baobab tree in habitat. If I had more time I would have flown to see the Avenue of the Baobabs at Morondava. The Adansonia grandidieri found at the Avenue of the Baobabs are a very popular tourist attraction and photographs of them can be found all over the Internet. Sadly, I just didn’t have the time this trip to get over to Morondava. So while I didn’t get to see the largest of all of Madagascar’s Baobabs, I still had a chance to stand next to Adansonia za while visiting Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. 

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park has two really nice, old Adansonia za. The first I would come across was this double.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za Female Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za Female

Adansonia za did not disappoint. It dwarfs all the other trees in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za Female

Not far from the first Adansonia za, this second in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park was even larger. Without scale, it is hard to give readers an idea of just how large this tree was. Trust me. It was huge.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za Male Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za Male

There is some discrepancy on the age of this Adansonia za. I have read online that some think it is 2,000 years old. However, the conservative estimate of over 500 years old is probably more accurate. So put things into perspective about the age of this Adansonia za below, around the time the Portuguese sea captain Diego Diaz was the first European to see Madagascar in 1500 AD, this tree started growing.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za Male

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park is most famous for its richness in birds. The park is basically a bird sanctuary. Birders have been coming to Zombitse long before it became a national park. Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park is home to 85 species of birds. Almost half can only be found in Madagascar, with some being endemic to the park itself. Unfortunately for bird lovers, I didn’t take many photos, as I was too busy looking down at plants to be bothered to look up for birds. I did snap this bad photo of some unknown bird.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Unknown Bird

Madagascan Flatid Leaf Bugs (Phromnia rosea) could be found throughout southern Madagascar. Depending on where I saw them, the adults could be any color from yellow, to orange, to red. The odd-looking white bug to the left is actually a nymph of the Madagascan Flatid Leaf Bug.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Flatid leaf bugs (Phromnia rosea)

A type of Planthopper, Madagascan Flatid Leaf Bugs are quite gregarious while they feed on plants.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Flatid Leaf Bugs (Phromnia rosea)

There are eight lemur species in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. The most common along the trails are the Verreaux’s sifaka.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Verreaux's sifaka Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Verreaux's sifaka

I was also fortunate to see a nocturnal lemur during my hike. It turned out that I would only see one other nocturnal lemur my entire four-week trip. Below is a Hubbard’s Sportive Lemur.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Hubbard's Sportive Lemur) Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Hubbard's Sportive Lemur

Back in the 4×4 and continuing on with the drive to Toliara, I saw this remnant of the once expansive dry deciduous forest. Miraculously, this Adansonia za has survived deforestation.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Adansonia za

My trip through Madagascar occurred during the whole month of November. That coincides with the tail-end of the dry season there. Lucky for me, I only had to hike in the rain twice my entire trip. While I was finishing up my Madagascar trip, the rains started to arrive, as this storm just outside Toliara shows.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Rain Storm

To get to the small fishing village of Anakao you must take a boat from Toliara. I arrived too early, as it was low tide. So I had to wait a few hours for the tide to come.

Anakao Dog

Once the tide was in, the speedboat arrived. Getting to the boat involved a zebu cart ride.

Anakao Zebu Cart in Water

The speedboat wasn’t just used to get tourists to Anakao, but it was also used to ship food and supplies to the villagers. So it took a long time to get everything loaded up.

Anakao Zebu Cart in Water Anakao Zebu Cart in Water

In typical Madagascar fashion, nothing is direct. We had stops to make along the way. What should be a quick boat ride can take a few hours depending upon the day. One stop we made did give me a chance to snap a photograph of a boat I think needs some maintenance.

Anakao Rusty Boat

My lodging for the new few nights was to be at the Peter Pan Auberge. The place came highly recommended on Trip Advisor and I was not disappointed. It is a great place to end your vacation in Madagascar. There is no power or running water on Anakao, so generators and solar helped run the place.

Anakao Peter Pan Auberge

The owner of the Peter Pan Auberge was a unique fellow named Dario. Quite flamboyant, he would greet each guest that came off the boat. Dario is wearing the zebra shorts with a pink tank top. Dario’s partner Valerio ran the restaurant. He prepared some of the best food I had on my entire trip.

Anakao Peter Pan Auberge Guest and Dario

This is where I spent most of my time while at the Peter Pan Auberge.

Anakao Peter Pan Auberge Hut

I also found myself drinking a lot of Three Horses Beer. I wasn’t a fan of Three Horses Beer when I arrived in Madagascar, but by the time I left I found it enjoyable. Even warm. Which is usually how you were forced to drink it.

Anakao Three Horses Beer

Security was good.

n Auberge Soldier

Anakao is a pleasant little fishing village. During the day, everything in the village centered around fishing. While the men were out fishing, the kids were in school, and the women were working, Anakao was a quiet place.

Anakao Young Fishermen Anakao Fishermen

As the sun starts to go down, the beach comes alive with more activity. Boats are left on the beach for the next day and villagers light fires to cook or burn trash.When the tide comes in, the burnt trash is washed away.

Anakao Boats at Sunset Anakao People at Sunset

For once while in Madagascar, I was able to just relax. I made sure no treks or other tours were planned. I just used the time to rest, reflect, drink beer and lie on the beach. I did do a few small explorations by foot. I found this Hyphaene coriacea growing right in the sand next to a fisherman’s house on the beach.

Anakao Hyphaene coriacea Anakao Hyphaene coriacea

An Anakao beach house with aloes lining the front entry. They look to be an Aloe vaombe accompanied by a bunch of Aloe divaricata.

Anakao Beach House with Aloes

While the beach photographs above might give the illusion that Anakao is located in a lush, tropical area, it is not. Anakao is actually located in the dry forest and not far from the famed Madagascar spiny forest. The abundant trees you see next to the tombs below are actually Euphorbia stenoclada.

Anakao Beach Tombs Anakao Tombs

My final sunset in Madagascar. I couldn’t believe the four weeks were up and tomorrow would start the almost two-day trip back home to San Diego.

Anakao Fishermen at Sunset


Additional Reading on Anakao, Madagascar from fellow blogger.

Related posts:

  1. Peak Boby and Andringitra Mountains, Madagascar
  2. Anja Reserve and Ambalavao, Madagascar
  3. Isalo National Park, Madagascar
  4. Camp Catta and Andringitra Mountains, Madagascar

Tagged: Aloes, Madagascar, Travel, Water Wise, Wildlife

February 4, 2016

Comments

  1. Zanarison Zephyrin says

    May 22, 2018 at 9:51 AM

    Hi my name is Zanarison Zephyrin (ElderTreks Tour leader ) You just did a very good job ,thanks for being the Ambassador of this lovely country with awesome nature and incredible sympathetic people .

    Reply
    • Len Geiger says

      May 23, 2018 at 3:09 PM

      Love the country and will be back soon.

      Reply
  2. Christophe Quénel says

    November 1, 2022 at 1:27 PM

    Hi Len,
    About the “Uncarina unknown”, it’s Uncarina leandrii and not peltata that is located further north.
    And it’s not Euphorbia laro (= E.tirucalli) but Euphorbia enterophora ssp.enterophora on the picture «zombitse-vohibasia-national-park-euphorbia-iaro».
    This Euphorbia “is distinguished by branches forming flattened cladodes, producing leaves and other branches from their flat tips” (see Guide des plantes succulentes du Sud-Ouest de Madagascar).
    The branches of Euphorbia tirucalli are cylindrical with white stripes.
    However, there is a taxonomic problem with Euphorbia enterophora ssp.enterophora which is also identified as Euphorbia xylophylloides. It seems that Euphorbia xylophylloides is more legitimate.

    Reply
    • Len Geiger says

      November 1, 2022 at 1:43 PM

      Thanks Christophe!

      Reply

Comments: Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may also like

  1. Peak Boby and Andringitra Mountains, Madagascar
  2. Anja Reserve and Ambalavao, Madagascar
  3. Isalo National Park, Madagascar
  4. Camp Catta and Andringitra Mountains, Madagascar

Archives

TAGS

Agaves Aloes Botanical Garden Bromeliads Cactus Cycads Dypsis Echeveria Epiphytes Euphorbia Fertilizing Flowering Perennials Flowering Shrubs Flowering Trees Fragrance Fruit Trees Fungus Garden Art Gardening Tips Germination Greenhouse Hibiscus Hiking Landscape Madagascar Mexico New Caledonia Orchids Palm Trees Plant Removal Potting Soil Propagation Rancho Soledad Nursery Rants Rock Garden South Africa Southeast Asia Thailand Transplanting Travel Tropical Plants Variegation Water Wise Weather Wildlife

Get The Latest

Keep up with the latest gardening news from Married To Plants.


CATEGORIES

  • Palms
  • Cycads
  • Succulents
  • Flowering Plants
  • Landscaping
  • Reviews
  • Tours
  • Hodgepodge

CONNECT

  • Contact



  • © 2025 Married To Plants. All Rights Reserved.